Why 2 Weeks in Italy?
Each year, Ben and I go on one big international vacation together. Since our bucket lists are compatible, but not identical– we alternate who chooses the destination. Last year I knew I wanted to visit South America, and we decided on Cartagena, Colombia. Ben had yet to visit Europe, and Italy was at the top of his list. My only request was that we went in the early summer; so that it wouldn’t be too crowded, but would be warm enough to wear a swimsuit.
We had thought about visiting a handful of countries on the trip. Ultimately we decided to do a deep-dive of Italy because it would allow us to visit areas only accessible by car. We knew right away that we wanted to stay a few nights in Tuscany and Lake Como. Both of us had a strong interest in visiting Florence. Originally Ben wanted to go to Rome as well, but I had been there before and didn’t love the city enough to return. We compromised on Cinque Terre, because we both wanted to spend as much time outside of cities as possible (we live in NYC!)
Since we were visiting at the very beginning of summer (technically spring), we chose to first visit the places where weather wouldn’t matter too much on our trip– Florence and Montepulciano. We spent Memorial Day weekend in Cinque Terre, and traveled to Lake Como on the first of June. I love traveling during US holidays, because you basically get a free PTO day 🙂 I highly recommend traveling to Europe during the Summer, because even though flights are undoubtedly more expensive– you always spend less money when the weather is nice (the beach is free!)
Transportation:
I would recommend booking flights to Italy as far in advance as possible. It’s easy to get really cheap flights using websites like Skyscanner (under $500rt is a good deal,) but if you wait too long– it can be expensive. We flew to Milan, as it’s typically the cheapest way to get there. From there, we took a train to Florence. It took about 13 hours total, and it was fine.
In order to get to Montepulciano (Tuscany) from Florence, we rented a car. We used Avis, where Ben had signed up ahead of time. It cost us about ~600 for the next 10 days, but you could do it for a few hundred less (forego the GPS and use your phone.) We chose a mid-range/size option; a cute FIAT 500. It’s not quite as cheap as taking a train, but it afforded us so much freedom. It was worth every penny.
You also have probably heard that it’s difficult to drive in Italy. This is partially true. If you can’t drive standard, you’ll end up paying more to rent an automatic. If you’re comfortable driving stick, you’ll have the time of your life. Ben LOVED driving in Italy. The roads are winding and the speed limits are lenient. If you are a person who genuinely loves to drive standard, you’ll thrive on the Italian streets. We kept our car for our entire trip and it was incredibly convenient getting from Lake Como to the Milan airport.
Accommodation:
Though Ben and I prefer to stay in hotels, we knew it would be financially responsible to do an equal share of airbnbs. It’s not just that they tend to be less expensive, but they also afford you the possibility of cooking your own meals. Our trip was 12 nights, so that was important.
It was obvious that we’d stay in a hotel in Florence, because we knew we’d be most eager to try the restaurants there. Hotels are also very accommodating to travelers, whereas airbnb hosts tend to be more strict. We stayed at a beautiful bed & breakfast called Firenze Suite. Our host, Blernia was so warm and welcoming. She and her husband went above and beyond to make our stay special. They make breakfast every morning for guests to enjoy in their beautiful (+ huge) rooms. Our rate was less that $180 per night, and the location was outstanding. I’d highly recommend staying here.
Our room at Firenze Suite.
Time needed in Florence: 3-4 Nights
When it came to Montepulciano in Tuscany, we decided a hotel would be a good option as well. We didn’t know the area, and we thought it’d be helpful to have a concierge service to amplify our two days there. We stayed at the luxurious Locanda San Francesco and it was a dream. We paid just over $200 per night, and breakfast was included (and phenomenal.) Our window looked out over the landscape of Tuscany. When we arrived, Ben had arranged for there to be champagne and chocolates waiting for us in the room. It was a sweet gesture, that would have been more appreciated had I not been experiencing the hangover of the century. He is a model boyfriend. If you want to book a romantic trip in Tuscany, please don’t look any further. This is your spot. Also, Montepulciano is fantastic. It was by far our favorite location.
View from our room in Montepulciano. Ben arranged for there to be champagne and chocolates when we arrived 🙂 Boyfriend points.
Time needed in Montepulciano: 2-3 Nights
Hotels in Cinque Terre are not inexpensive, and we weren’t particularly impressed by any of our options. Instead, we had better luck finding a place on Airbnb. We found a place with an amazing deck in Riomaggiore. Our Airbnb was in a central location, on a very busy street. During the day it could feel a little overwhelming with the huge amounts of tourists. However, we were directly across from the best place in town to buy antipasti, and spent a lot of our trip eating olives and drinking aperol spritzes on our porch.
Our porch in our Riomaggiore airbnb was heavily utilized
Time needed in Cinque Terre: 1-2 Nights (3 AT MOST!)
Our last stop was in Lake Como, where we stayed in a little town called Argengo. Our Airbnb “Villa Peroni Lake Como” was absolutely beautiful. It was huge, first of all. It was well decorated, newly renovated, and clean. But the best part was the view of the lake– visible in every room. While Argengo was certainly not the most poppin’ of Lake Como neighborhoods, we were able to take the ferry quite easily to the major hotspots (Bellagio, Vernazza.) If you’re going to stay here, a car is an absolute MUST. Go to the grocery store ahead of time and be prepared to cook some of your own meals. By cook, I mean buy some prosciutto and cantaloupe and fresh pasta with pesto. No need to make anything time consuming.
We had an entire floor of this Lake Como Villa
Time needed in Lake Como: 3-4 Nights
dining & fun:
When I’m traveling, the #1 most important thing to me is the food. I think many of you will agree with this. Before coming to Italy, Ben and I did the Whole 30 paleo diet. We also spent the 4 months before our trip religiously kickboxing. I lost about 10lbs before our trip + felt amazing– but I knew this was a once and a lifetime opportunity to eat all the prosciutto and spaghetti in the world, so I had no plans to keep my diet up abroad. Unfortunately, I have lactose intolerance, IBS and acid reflux disease. So for those of you who recommended I eat cheesy truffle gnocchi from Osteria Santo Spirito (a crowd favorite)– sorry, but I had to pass.
florence favorites:
Before traveling somewhere new, I always reach out to my followers for recommendations. It came as no surprise that everyone had something to say about Florence. Ben and I were super excited to visit this city, but our to-do list was a little bit daunting. I don’t want to stress you out with too many suggestions, so I’m going to condense it to my favorite 5 things.
- Watch the sunset from Piazzale Michelangelo. Get there early. Bring a bottle of wine (& “Salamini” salamis). This is a MUST.
- Eat dinner at La Giostra— by far our favorite meal there. Order the pear raviolis, even if that sounds gross to you. Also, the lamb. Reservations are key, so be sure to email your hotel ahead of time. This place is an absolute must. Do not skip it. If you hang around, you might even get a limoncello shot…. or 10. We met a British couple here and the restaurant gave us an entire pitcher of limoncello to split. I have never been so hungover in my life.
- For *some health* checkout Shake Cafe. This place serves absolutely amazing salads and Acai bowls– for when you have a spaghetti hangover. This place is unlike anywhere else I saw in Italy. So if you’re like me and spend the months leading up to your vacation working out, you’ll probably be stoked to find some kale (haters gonna hate.)
- For a late lunch/snack, we were highly obsessed with Gastronomia Giuliano— a gourmet grocery store with some outside seating. We made ourselves an anti-pasti platter that for the remainder of our trip we tried to recreate (unsuccessfully.) This place is a must.
- If truffles are your jam, you should go to Osteria delle Tre Panche! They specialize in dishes with truffles, the place is tiiiny, and you’ll DEFINITELY need a reservation (e-mail your hotel for that one ;))
- If you’re a 420 advocate, there is a cannabis store in Firenze. Note the product is quite mild.
montepulciano favorites:
Of all the places we went, Montepulciano was our undisputed favorite. If you haven’t been, you should really prioritize it. If a trip to Italy is far off in the distant future, just buy a bottle of Montepulciano wine. It’s a personal favorite, which is why we decided to go there.
- A meal at Osteria Acquacheta will have you saying “Salt Bae, who?” Seriously. If you are a meat person, and I mean someone who LOVES steak, this place is an absolute must. They do 2 nightly seatings, where you should expect to share a table with a stranger. The menu may seem daunting at first, until you realize the steaks are meant for sharing– and everything suddenly looks cheap.
- Take a quick trip to Pienza + make sure to taste the cheeses– what the region is known for. Also, if you see an old gentleman’s leather workshop, stop by and have him make you a handmade belt. Ben bought one for $30 and was told it should last about 30 years.
- Do a wine tasting at Talosa wine cellar. Book as far in advance as possible. For special treatment, contact Andrea and let him know Monique sent you (she’s practically their US ambassador!)
- Eat dinner at La Grotta. Definitely a top 2 meal in Italy. We loved this restaurant, even more so than some Michelin spots we hit up! The service is fantastic, the food is unreal, and the ambiance is SO romantic. Make sure to request outdoor seating when you make your reservation. Also, don’t wear heels because it is at the end of a STEEP hill. Yes, I learned the hard way.
- If you’re into weird sh*t (I am), checkout the Museo Torture! The entry fee is under 10 euro, and you’ll only need 45 minutes there (tops.)
cinque terre favorites:
So hear me out, I was really excited to visit Cinque Terre. It’s a beautiful place, and who hasn’t seen the photos of the brightly painted homes? Don’t get me wrong, I enjoyed my time there, especially the places i’m going to list below– but it wasn’t our favorite. Perhaps we were burnt out from a week of non-stop traveling. After all, we had been dining out every day. Still, despite it not being my #1, we had some great times.
- The best beach in Cinque Terre is Monterosso, which is where I now know i’d have preferred to stay. It’s the least colorful of the five towns, but it’s the only one with a nice beach. We paid a total of 20 euro for us each to have our own lounge chair and umbrella for the day. Totally worth it. It’s not overly crowded and it’s a nice place to swim.
- While in Monterosso, you should definitely eat at Nuovo Bar Eden, while it’s not “write home about” amazing, it had really solid food and the best view of the beach you could ask for. It was conveniently located next to the private beach, where we left our non-valuables while we ate. You can NEVER go wrong with prosciutto y melon.
- Eat dinner at Rio Bistrot! Since Ben and I had a kitchen in our Riomaggiore apartment, we decided that if we cooked dinner at home one night, we could go to a Michelin star restaurant another night. They have a 45 euro pre-fixed menu, which we both had. It was fantastic. Though I will say, if you have a sensitive stomach, maybe just order off the menu. My pasta dish was made with heavy cream and I knew better to touch it, but the pre-fixed is up to the chef’s digression. There is also a magnificent view of the ocean, so make sure to BOOK AHEAD and ask for a ocean facing table.
- If you choose to make dinner at home one night, be sure to stop by one of the little grocery stores and get some homemade pesto! Cinque Terre is the region that pesto is from, and oh my god– nothing compares.
Lake como favorites:
Ahhhh Como! Talk about a hyped up place, right? I mean, Amal Clooney calls this place home. I can say with certainty that this is one of the most beautiful places I’ve been. The only mountains I’ve been more impressed by have been in New Zealand. Lake Como is simply stunning, and it makes sense why the rich and famous flock there. It’s majestic. In conclusion, it lives up to the hype.
- If you’re staying in or near the town of Como, eat dinner at Ristorante Materia. It came recommended by Michelin guide, and also a personal friend. If you’re someone who is an adventurous eater, or a big fan of Japanese cuisine– you’ll dig this place. If you’re a conservative eater, skip it.
- If you’re feeling like a boujee bitch– have a drink at “The Beach” at Grand Hotel Tremezzo. This is one of the fanciest hotels in Como, probably one of the most expensive cocktail menus on the lake– but the view is incredible. In my view it was totally worth it, in Ben’s it was not.
- Take a trip to Bellagio and Varenna– undoubtedly the most quaint towns on the lake. Everything is accessible by Ferry.
- If you stay in our airbnb (listed above) eat at Ristorante la Piazzetta! Order the octopus (favorite thing i’ve ever eaten), beef tartar and a pizza.
- The best thing we did on our entire trip was rent a boat from Turati. For four hours, including gas, it cost us $200. Ben says it was the second best day of our trip (second to exploring Tuscany), but I think it was the best 🙂
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